alice springs
Don't get caught up in the media drama, this place is pretty spectacular, so much so, we extended our stay!
Yeehaw! Another border crossing! This time we’ve hit the Northern Territory! A massive day of driving including a 3.5hr drive on the last bit of unsealed road from Oodnadatta, which found ourselves driving in and along dry riverbeds and on a track that probably hasn’t been driven on for the past few months. The route was a scenic one though, as we passed through the Painted Desert. We hit the bitumen at Cadney and then passed many road trains on the Stuart Highway as we headed north. We arrived into Erldunda Roadhouse to our powered site where Rob did a proper inspection of the van after the crazy roads we had been on earlier. He found that we lost a drain tap off one of the water tanks as a rock had ripped it off clean but that’s an easy fix. After saying hello to the resident camel and emus, and noticing just how red the sand was, we used our extra hour we gained from crossing the border by hitting the swimming pool to cool down and wash off a few days of dusty driving.
The next morning, we travelled that last 2hrs to arrive at Alice Springs. We had an ensuite powered drive-thru site at Discovery Parks Alice Springs as we wanted to lock away our surfboard and bikes at night in the ensuite. This caravan park was brilliant! Between 4 swimming pools, a waterslide, a sunset viewing area, kids club, a gym and a function room with giant games in the aircon, we actually decided to extend our stay! We enjoyed some well deserved lazy days by the pool and the pancakes on Sunday put on by the park managers was a yummy treat! During our stay in Alice Springs, we visited the Royal Flying Doctor Service, ANZAC Hill and The National Road Transport Museum. The only butcher in town didn’t disappoint with an array of quality meats, some a little exotic including camel burger, crocodile and cranberry sausage, and kangaroo and emu sausages to name a few.
Alice Springs doesn’t have the best reputation due to the increased youth crime, but if you use common sense, you will avoid any drama. This includes locking everything up (which we do everywhere we go whether it’s rural or metropolitan), avoiding the town after dark and visiting the supermarkets before the bottle-shop opens at 3pm. We didn’t have any issues, and felt safe for the entirety of our stay. This place is rich in culture and history so be sure to immerse yourself when you do visit. We spoke with some Aunties and Uncles who were selling their artwork in town which gave us some insight into the beauty of this region through their eyes. And what a stunning region it is! We used Alice Springs as a base to explore the East and West MacDonnell Ranges.
emily and jessie gap
~ 𝘦𝘢𝘴𝘵 𝘮𝘢𝘤𝘥𝘰𝘯𝘯𝘦𝘭𝘭 𝘳𝘢𝘯𝘨𝘦𝘴 ~
Anthwerrke and Atherrke are the Arrernte names for Emily Gap and Jessie Gap. These gaps are associated with storylines for the three caterpillars; Yeperenye, Ntyarlke and Utnerrengatye. The caterpillar story is represented in a gallery of rock paintings at Emily Gap but kwatye (water) fills the gap making it inaccessible at times. There are also rock paintings inside Jessie Gap which the Arrernte People have asked to not take photos of, or for Aboriginal women or children to see. As we were visiting, we spotted a shrub fire starting so called it in. it was a very slow burn but took the firies most of the day to maintain it.
Anthwerrke and Atherrke are the Arrernte names for Emily Gap and Jessie Gap. These gaps are associated with storylines for the three caterpillars; Yeperenye, Ntyarlke and Utnerrengatye. The caterpillar story is represented in a gallery of rock paintings at Emily Gap but kwatye (water) fills the gap making it inaccessible at times. There are also rock paintings inside Jessie Gap which the Arrernte People have asked to not take photos of, or for Aboriginal women or children to see. As we were visiting, we spotted a shrub fire starting so called it in. it was a very slow burn but took the firies most of the day to maintain it.
Corroboree Rock
~ 𝘦𝘢𝘴𝘵 𝘮𝘢𝘤𝘥𝘰𝘯𝘯𝘦𝘭𝘭 𝘳𝘢𝘯𝘨𝘦𝘴 ~
Corroboree Rock is found in the Corroboree Rock Conservation Reserve which holds great importance to the local Arrenrnte People. It was formed more than 800 million years ago by salt lakes and it is a sacred men’s site that plays a significant role in culture today. The Arrenrnte People have mapped out where you can explore and ask that you do not wonder past the designated path.
Corroboree Rock is found in the Corroboree Rock Conservation Reserve which holds great importance to the local Arrenrnte People. It was formed more than 800 million years ago by salt lakes and it is a sacred men’s site that plays a significant role in culture today. The Arrenrnte People have mapped out where you can explore and ask that you do not wonder past the designated path.
Trephina gorge
~ 𝘦𝘢𝘴𝘵 𝘮𝘢𝘤𝘥𝘰𝘯𝘯𝘦𝘭𝘭 𝘳𝘢𝘯𝘨𝘦𝘴 ~
Trephina Gorge was the furthest we travelled on the East MacDonnell Ranges. This area is 85km from Alice Springs and is significant to the Arrernte People as it contains sites that are part of the Wallaby Dreaming trail. The apere (River Red Gum) lines the creek bed and are used for both bush tucker and medicine. The psyllids on the leaves produce sweet white secretions and the leaves themselves are used as a herb to flavour meat roasting on a fire. For medicine, the bark can be soaked in water to make an eyedrop. This liquid is also effective as a wash for sores or swallowed to cure diarrhea. The track out to the gorge does include a 4km unsealed road and 3 dry riverbed crossings, 2 sand and one concrete. There is full Optus phone reception on arrival, but no Telstra service.
Trephina Gorge was the furthest we travelled on the East MacDonnell Ranges. This area is 85km from Alice Springs and is significant to the Arrernte People as it contains sites that are part of the Wallaby Dreaming trail. The apere (River Red Gum) lines the creek bed and are used for both bush tucker and medicine. The psyllids on the leaves produce sweet white secretions and the leaves themselves are used as a herb to flavour meat roasting on a fire. For medicine, the bark can be soaked in water to make an eyedrop. This liquid is also effective as a wash for sores or swallowed to cure diarrhea. The track out to the gorge does include a 4km unsealed road and 3 dry riverbed crossings, 2 sand and one concrete. There is full Optus phone reception on arrival, but no Telstra service.
simpsons gap
~ 𝘵𝘫𝘰𝘳𝘪𝘵𝘫𝘢 / 𝘸𝘦𝘴𝘵 𝘮𝘢𝘤𝘥𝘰𝘯𝘯𝘦𝘭𝘭 𝘳𝘢𝘯𝘨𝘦𝘴 ~
The closest natural attraction to Alice Springs, Simpsons Gap is always the perfect way to begin exploring Tjoritja (West MacDonnell Ranges). the ancient ghost gums glow in the morning light.
The closest natural attraction to Alice Springs, Simpsons Gap is always the perfect way to begin exploring Tjoritja (West MacDonnell Ranges). the ancient ghost gums glow in the morning light.
standley chasm
~ 𝘵𝘫𝘰𝘳𝘪𝘵𝘫𝘢 / 𝘸𝘦𝘴𝘵 𝘮𝘢𝘤𝘥𝘰𝘯𝘯𝘦𝘭𝘭 𝘳𝘢𝘯𝘨𝘦𝘴 ~
The place (Angkerle) where the water moves between (Atwatye), also known as Standley Chasm, is connected with the Renge Tnengkarre (Euro Dreaming). It was magical, just us and many little orange butterflies fluttering around us. We just sat in awe, watching the morning sun beginning to glow on the tops of the walls. Angkerle Atwatye is 100% owned and operated by the local Arrernte community, so it’s not covered by a national parks pass, but only costs $30 for a family ticket to see this beauty, with all money going back to Community.
The place (Angkerle) where the water moves between (Atwatye), also known as Standley Chasm, is connected with the Renge Tnengkarre (Euro Dreaming). It was magical, just us and many little orange butterflies fluttering around us. We just sat in awe, watching the morning sun beginning to glow on the tops of the walls. Angkerle Atwatye is 100% owned and operated by the local Arrernte community, so it’s not covered by a national parks pass, but only costs $30 for a family ticket to see this beauty, with all money going back to Community.
ellery creek
~ 𝘵𝘫𝘰𝘳𝘪𝘵𝘫𝘢 / 𝘸𝘦𝘴𝘵 𝘮𝘢𝘤𝘥𝘰𝘯𝘯𝘦𝘭𝘭 𝘳𝘢𝘯𝘨𝘦𝘴 ~
Now this place had to of been our most memorable visit. Usually a very busy tourist spot, we had this stunning waterhole all to ourselves! The stillness of the water, the fullness of the waterhole, the echoing calls of the crow bouncing off the walls, we were overwhelmed with beauty and initially dropped the dacks and went starkers into the water for a morning dip. What an experience! We did originally have a campsite booked for here, but with temperatures past 40 degrees from midday, we decided to cancel. We did have site 8 booked which is a large site to keep the van hitched. There is Optus phone reception here, but not Telstra.
Now this place had to of been our most memorable visit. Usually a very busy tourist spot, we had this stunning waterhole all to ourselves! The stillness of the water, the fullness of the waterhole, the echoing calls of the crow bouncing off the walls, we were overwhelmed with beauty and initially dropped the dacks and went starkers into the water for a morning dip. What an experience! We did originally have a campsite booked for here, but with temperatures past 40 degrees from midday, we decided to cancel. We did have site 8 booked which is a large site to keep the van hitched. There is Optus phone reception here, but not Telstra.
ochre pits
~ 𝘵𝘫𝘰𝘳𝘪𝘵𝘫𝘢 / 𝘸𝘦𝘴𝘵 𝘮𝘢𝘤𝘥𝘰𝘯𝘯𝘦𝘭𝘭 𝘳𝘢𝘯𝘨𝘦𝘴 ~
What a special place to visit! The ochre from here is still used by the Western Aranda People, mainly for ceremonial purposes. It is traditional protocol for Aboriginal men to dig for ochre and know the stories associated with particular ochre pits, with Aboriginal women and children permitted to use ochre for ceremonies. For us to be able to visit a public ochre pit is something we didn’t take for granted. The yellow ochre is caused by a mixture of white clay and iron oxide (rust). The red-brown colours are formed by high levels of oxidised iron in very fine-grain hematite or limonite. White ochre has very little or no iron. The white colour comes from kaolin, a white clay mineral.
What a special place to visit! The ochre from here is still used by the Western Aranda People, mainly for ceremonial purposes. It is traditional protocol for Aboriginal men to dig for ochre and know the stories associated with particular ochre pits, with Aboriginal women and children permitted to use ochre for ceremonies. For us to be able to visit a public ochre pit is something we didn’t take for granted. The yellow ochre is caused by a mixture of white clay and iron oxide (rust). The red-brown colours are formed by high levels of oxidised iron in very fine-grain hematite or limonite. White ochre has very little or no iron. The white colour comes from kaolin, a white clay mineral.
ormiston gorge
~ 𝘵𝘫𝘰𝘳𝘪𝘵𝘫𝘢 / 𝘸𝘦𝘴𝘵 𝘮𝘢𝘤𝘥𝘰𝘯𝘯𝘦𝘭𝘭 𝘳𝘢𝘯𝘨𝘦𝘴 ~
Again, we had another waterhole all to ourselves! We spent endless time floating around the gorge on our inflatable rings, feeling minuscule with the towering rock walls around us. We watched the Peregrine Falcons and Wedge-Tailed Eagles soaring around the tops of the gorge and spotted arrwe, the Arrernte name for rock wallabies, hopping along the ledges of the rock walls. The water was a beautiful temperature too, just like the other waterholes. We could feel the temperature get a little cooler towards the southern end, where it is estimated to be up to 14m deep. Our time here melted away between frocking in the water and basking on the sand banks under the ghost gums. If you fancy camping here, we did have site 2 booked. There is also Optus phone reception here but no Telstra service.
Again, we had another waterhole all to ourselves! We spent endless time floating around the gorge on our inflatable rings, feeling minuscule with the towering rock walls around us. We watched the Peregrine Falcons and Wedge-Tailed Eagles soaring around the tops of the gorge and spotted arrwe, the Arrernte name for rock wallabies, hopping along the ledges of the rock walls. The water was a beautiful temperature too, just like the other waterholes. We could feel the temperature get a little cooler towards the southern end, where it is estimated to be up to 14m deep. Our time here melted away between frocking in the water and basking on the sand banks under the ghost gums. If you fancy camping here, we did have site 2 booked. There is also Optus phone reception here but no Telstra service.
redbank gorge
~ 𝘵𝘫𝘰𝘳𝘪𝘵𝘫𝘢 / 𝘸𝘦𝘴𝘵 𝘮𝘢𝘤𝘥𝘰𝘯𝘯𝘦𝘭𝘭 𝘳𝘢𝘯𝘨𝘦𝘴 ~
Our last stop for Tjoritja! Yarretyeke, also known as Redbank Gorge, is a remote chasm that’s 2hrs west of Alice Springs. It was a dirt track in and out, making for a bumpy and hilly ride. The gorge was rather dry and the temperature was really warming up. We trekked among the dry riverbed, using the shades of the gums for regular resting spots. This place is known for the narrow chasms that you can swim or float through and the many threatened species of wildlife that use the waterhole as a haven. With a fair chance of the waterhole being dry, and with temperatures beginning to hit past 40 degrees, we decided to use the upcoming cloud coverage to trek back to the car. A gentle breeze spontaneously began to blow while we were walking back, giving us a little whisper that we had made the right decision. The campground isn't too far from here. We had site 11 booked at the Woodland Campground which is suitable for vans. It is recommended to have a 4WD and off-grid caravan for this campground. There is full Optus phone reception, but not Telstra service.
Our last stop for Tjoritja! Yarretyeke, also known as Redbank Gorge, is a remote chasm that’s 2hrs west of Alice Springs. It was a dirt track in and out, making for a bumpy and hilly ride. The gorge was rather dry and the temperature was really warming up. We trekked among the dry riverbed, using the shades of the gums for regular resting spots. This place is known for the narrow chasms that you can swim or float through and the many threatened species of wildlife that use the waterhole as a haven. With a fair chance of the waterhole being dry, and with temperatures beginning to hit past 40 degrees, we decided to use the upcoming cloud coverage to trek back to the car. A gentle breeze spontaneously began to blow while we were walking back, giving us a little whisper that we had made the right decision. The campground isn't too far from here. We had site 11 booked at the Woodland Campground which is suitable for vans. It is recommended to have a 4WD and off-grid caravan for this campground. There is full Optus phone reception, but not Telstra service.
With all the dusty driving and hiking along riverbeds, it was time to reward our efforts with a Sunday session at Alice Springs Brewing Co. Nothing beats territory summer evenings with ginger beers, salty margs, live music and the best grub around! This joint is literally across the road from the Discovery Park Alice Springs. Winning! It does get rather busy so bookings are recommended at all times during the year. The pub was established in 2019 from a passion project. The owner has been brewing his own beer since he was 18 years old and has tackled some challenges to open this brilliant venue. Everything was on point and is certainly worth the visit!
We loved Alice Springs so much that we decided to stay another two nights on our return from Devils Marbles. This time, we booked two nights at Temple Bar Caravan Park which is on the way to the West MacDonnell Ranges. Here we took a big exhale and immersed ourselves in nature. From the bright red ranges behind us, to the clear starry nights and the abundance of rock wallabies, we thoroughly enjoyed our stay. We did absolutely nothing but recharged our batteries, both van and bodies! We had power and water, and Trish the owner was more than accomodating in finding us a grassy site with shade. There is a shed with amenities and a laundry. The campground is cash only and costed us $80 for a family for two nights. Trish had the water sprinklers going during the afternoons which entertained our warriors the old fashioned way! Exactly what we needed before we tackled the Mereenie Loop on our way to Kings Canyon!
Peace + love,
Peace + love,