flinders ranges
Just the sheer beauty of this place took our breath away! This old Country has so many stories and rich culture that allows you to feel grounded. The summer heat wasn't going to stop us from exploring this sacred Country.
Our drive from Quorn was a scenic one as we began to follow the ranges. We passed many historical sites and willy-willies that reminded us just how dry and hot this country is. We arrived at Wilpena Pound Caravan Park to our powered site amongst the bush. This place has everything you can imagine, from a supermarket, restaurant, pool and petrol (which was the cheapest in the area). We were on site 20 which was close to ammenities and a short stroll to the pool. There were plenty of trees for us to hang our hammock and we were close to the laundry. Although we were connected to water, we could only use it for washing as the water quality was being tested. The caravan park gave us a 10L box of water per person for drinking which was plenty for our stay. we had both Telstra and Optus service. Most sites had a makeshift fire-pit but as it was a total fire ban, plus the temperatures were in the high thirties, there was no need for our campfire during our stay!
Ikara, meaning 𝘮𝘦𝘦𝘵𝘪𝘯𝘨 𝘱𝘭𝘢𝘤𝘦, is the traditional name for Wilpena Pound by the Adnyamathanha People (adnya - rock; mathanha - people). Ikara is old Country, as the Flinders Ranges is the oldest landform with the longest living culture in the world. The Flinders Ranges were created by Akurra, two intertwined giant serpents, who were chasing a Kingfisher. There are many walks around the area that begin from the campground, and options to book a tour with an Aboriginal guide who will share the importance and history of the area. Each afternoon at the Wilpena Pound campground, a Welcome to Country is performed where you can learn more about the local Aboriginal history and culture. Times change depending on what time of the year it is, and each Welcome to Country is different as it depends on who is delivering it, but it is all just as informing and powerful. These are performed on the grassed area near the pool. You do need a National Parks Pass to enter and stay at Wilpena Pound. The Adnyamathanha People also manage the resort in partnership with the state government.
Akaroo rock
During our stay, we trekked the Arkaroo Rock Hike which is a 20min drive from the campground. It took us 1.5hrs in 33 degree dry heat, a Grade 3 walk. We’re so glad that we did it, the views were amazing! We connected with Country, from listening to the breeze through the thistles to watching little lizards scampering across the rocks. Arkaroo Rock is a significant cultural site for the Adnyamathanha People of the Flinders Ranges. The rock shelter at the top of the hike has rock paintings featuring ochre and charcoal images that depict the Yura Muda (Dreaming, or creation story) of Ikara (Wilpena Pound). Permissions have been granted to take photos of the rock art. This rock shelter is said to be the head of the male serpent. It is asked by the Adnyamathanha People to only visit before mid afternoon. If hiking in the warmer months like us, be sure to check the weather conditions before you leave, and then walk in the morning before the heat and pack hydration packs.
After staying at Wilpena Pound for two nights, it was time for us to continue our adventures through the ranges. Our travels led us through the Flinders Ranges all the way to Parachilna Gorge where we bunkered down for the night. With every bend and crest, we were constantly in awe. We camped at Parachilna Gorge campground which is at the base of the gorge along a dry riverbed. It was just us, the flies and a little breeze whistling through the trees. We watched the ants scurry to their nest, to then find ourselves dancing in the spitting rain, the perfect refresher after a 43 degree day! Our night was rather hot but the sound of the spitting rain on the roof soothed us sweaty souls.
blinman
On the way to Parachilna Gorge, we stopped in at a tiny town called Blinman. We couldn't resist a sign that said it was the best pub grub in the scrub so we had lunch at the North Blinman Hotel! The food and service were great, and so was the air conditioning! Close to Blinman you will also pass the purple ochre pits which was a unique sight to see, and you can also find Wadnya if you’re after some authentic Adnyamathanha bush tea, medicines, paintings or artifacts.
As we left the Flinders Rangers, we stopped in at the information bay where we watered some community plants and read more information about Aboriginal history and the importance of ochre in the area. As we hit the bitchuman, we had arrived into the township of Parachilna where everything was shut but there was still enough for our boys to froth again at more train memorabilia. The famous Prairie Hotel was closed for January and is known for their outback menu, including the feral feast banquet and feral antipasto which includes camel metwurst, roo pastrami, emu pate, goat chevre, bush tomato chilli jam, grilled vegetables, saltbush dukkah, bush tomato balsamic olive oil & their focaccia!
Flinders Way is a sealed road with unsealed roads for both the turnoffs to Wilpena Pound and Akaroo Rock. The road between Blinman and Parachilna is also unsealed. Check road conditions on all roads but when we were passing through, a 2WD would have found it easy. The Flinders Ranges was deeply spiritual and a visit that we were all needing to ground ourselves. We were amongst the gum trees, the emus, the kangaroos, the lizards, all while being in awe of Ikara. It was time to prep ourselves to hit the Oodnadatta Track! Hold onto your hats, more dusty roads to come!
Peace + love,
Peace + love,